![]() There are accurate MC processes out there.Ĭost? Ridiculous. Ludicrous for these manufacturers to place an arbitrary time on fluid exchange as a one size fits all. I let science have a say.Ĭommon sense dictates where you live and driving conditions and habits etc are determining factors of brake fluid longevity. Much like I fully expect 5 years before any exchange in the Clarity is necessary. I take the opportunity to test*** multiple vehicles brake fluid for moisture content (MC) at least once a year which is what I use as one determining factor. The Clarity I drive has 242 days till the vaunted MM informs the consumer it's time for brake fluid exchange. This does not correlate at all to the condition of the brake fluid. strictly counts down the days until Honda scares you into giving them money. Item 7 is programmed for three years in the maintenance minder (MM). If I do go with the 3-year interval, this is probably the method I will use. (Motive doesn't appear to directly have an adapter for Honda). I found a cap with a couple o-rings that is deigned to temporarily replace the reservoir cap and allow you to hook up a low pressure (5-10) psi air source to do this. I have a friend who recently got a Motive power bleeder (pressure type that slightly pressurizes the reservoir on the master) and he says it is the greatest thing since sliced bread. It appears there is a diaphragm that separates the 'vent' from the 'fluid' thus allowing a little expansion and contraction without actually having an atmosphere vent. ![]() I can attest our system does seem to be well sealed (And also seems to use the same cap as pretty much every other honda out there.) When I pulled the cap off there was a 'thurp' as it sucked in air due to a vacuum that had formed inside. I like to think a garage-kept clarity (where I'm running a dehumidifier in the winter) will see less moisture than one left outside all the time but eventually things will pickup moisture. I do agree that the bleeding is due to moisture and won't really change based on usage. I think some masters do need to be 'bench bleed' prior to installation, perhaps that is what that bleeder screw is for? (I'll have to go investigate myself later.) I can't remember where I saw that but if it is true the traditional bleeding methods may work, just with a bit less travel to leave the bleeder open. I also noticed the pedal goes directly to the brake master - I recall reading somewhere that the bottom 'x percent' of pedal travel will mechanically apply the friction brakes. ![]()
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